Two People, One Car, and an So Much of an Island Country to Discover

Seven weeks, 5,168 kilometers, 96 different places we stopped at, a colorfulfully marked map of New Zealand’s North Island, four cyclones, a two year anniversary, one birthday, and a lifetime of memories. In this time capsule we slept in either the tent, car, or cabins, we saw countless wild horses amidst rusty retro caravans, we chased waves that presented themselves in all the shades of blue, we spotted dolphins, hung out with seals, and caught sight of a whale. We had insane and isolated bays to ourselves, took showers in cold rivers, collected wild fruits, and plucked corn from fields.

We encountered a few bumps, starting with a stuck car in a river, escalating to four cyclones and being landlocked which was made all the more complicated by the termination of our rear diff. This compounded into an erroneous looking map that has not a loop but more of an eight drawn on it. Nonetheless, these were necessary ingredients to the magic simmering from this journey that we happily carry in our hearts. So we came out the bright side, sunkissed despite the rains, exposed to the unplanned exquisite central lands of the island, broke but never richer inside, and comforted by the warmth of home but so ready to do it all over again <3

In an attempt to summairse our trip, I could break it up into ten main chapters:

1. Northland

It all started with the Northlands, the sunniest chapter. Maybe it was the freshman’s fever in the league of travelers but we both look back at this time with butterflies in our tummies. Its welcoming distance from development, its raw and abundant landscape, its terrains that rewardingly tested the limits of our car, it’s perfectly peeling waves, its breathtaking camping canvases, its Kauri trees exerting wisdom, its fairy homes hand painted on rocks, and its beaches recognised as national highways, all got our hearts singing to a new cheerful beat.

Post this perfect commencement, crossing back through Auckland – an inevitable trajet to get to the rest of the island – our nerves were wracked. Cosmopolitan Auckland has no chance in a battle against the wonderlands of the Northland.

2. Coromandel

Making it through the concrete jungle nearly untouched, we went straight for the Coromandel, another one of the island’s pearls – somewhere more familiar with. Welcomed by the windy roads, smell of rain, lush nature, and the sounds of insects – we set up our tent at the foothills of the Broken Hills touching shoulders with a rugged rocky river. It was by chance, at a cozy cafe, that the following day we discovered the expected arrival of a cyclone. Responding to us remaining in our tent, we were drenched that night. Attempting to flee from the weather, we headed north of the Coromandel peninsula, but due to the arrival of cyclone no.2, we ended up safely stuck between landslides and overflowing river beds.

In this landlocked time we witnessed the wonders of pine forests silhouetted by misty magic, and engaged in the typical touristic tragedy of buying a spade and digging a warm pool in the sand. The Coromandel is truly special, one of the Earth’s many hearts I believe. We enjoyed our time despite the unexpected turn of events, however, when a road was made accessible we were among the first to dashed out.

3. The Bay of Plenty

We got a taste of the breeze of the Bay of Plenty, aiming for the Mount but not making it there the first time. Instead during a pristine pit stop at Te Aroha, we were informed of cyclone no.3’s approach. Deciding to hide out somewhere away from the city – cheaper and less concrete – we stayed at a campsite in Katikati where we slept in our car and spent most of our time in the shared facilities. Once the weather began to clear, we made it to the infamous Mount. Relieved but confused about how we felt about the Mount; while we took refuge in the cozy cafes, enjoyed the hike up the mountain, and got me my first new surfboard (hype); the tourist presence baffled us and the waves were not in sight – blown out by the storm they said. 

Our last two stops along the Bay of Plenty – Whakanane and Ohope – with no prior expectations turned out to be happy places of our trip. It could have been the surf, the freedom camping spot, or the cool fishing shop, but I think it was all of it and how they were tightly knit together by good energy – a holiday typed energy, one that relaxes you without you knowing it. 

4. The East Cape

Leaving Ohope the next morning, we were rejuvenated and excited (Mahiran especially) for the long awaited East Cape. It’s funny, in descriptive vocabulary, this part of the country would be depicted just like the North – rural, rugged, exquisite black sand bays – and yet it was so different. Again here it’s the energy that plays into it. There was something more eerie, less welcoming, more untouched. But that is exactly what conjures its own type of magic, the rare and precious kind. We knew we were passing through a treasure and yet we were not sure we were supposed to be there. It’s funny we felt that way because all of our encounters with people from the region were nothing but lovely, and yet in our hearts we felt it. Nonetheless, everything contributed to the wonders of the East – a place I would describe as the most picturesque section of the coastal country of the North Island.

5. Gisborne

Gisborne, or as locals call it ‘Gizzy’, even though a part of the East Cape, is marked as a chapter of its own. This because of the punctuated turn of events that bound us to it for longer than anywhere else kindling a deep rooted connection to this space. Essentially, it was two events which tied into one another which really defined this time: 1. we were informed that cyclone no.4 was expected to make landfall exactly where we were 2. The rear diff of our car died just as the storm was starting. What followed was a turbulence of midnight messages warning us that we might need to be evacuated, the cutting of electricity, the breaking of the main water pipes to the city, all roads were cut of due to landslides and silt spills, no connectivity so no internet, this meant no eftpos so things could only be bought in cash, people were running out of cash, Atms were not working, supermarkets were closed as they could not open their cashier desks, fuel was running low so there was a 40$ cap, and so much more. However, thankfully we were safe and dry in our tiny cabin and became close to the surrounding community who were equally stranded. During this time, we walked to mechanics inquiring about changing our rear diff with no luck. People were not getting clean water supply, it would be impossible to get the part. After relentless inquiry we came to know of a home mechanic who had trucks in his garden. Following a 40 min walk and an hour’s wait, he and his family came home having been engaged with helping the civil defense. They were incredible. Lucky for us, he had an old Hillux Surf in the garden, unfortunately it was a diesel which meant it would not be the right fit prohibiting the use of four wheel drive, however, it would run and could drive us out away as soon as roads reopened. He did the job in an hour and trusted us to pay him once this whole fiasco was over – heartwarming, gratitude, and respect for the kindness and help. 

Ten days after our arrival in Gizzy, we were driving out – appreciating this remote but homey town of the East. The devastation was heartbreaking, crops were washed away, farmers were throwing out the entirety of their furniture ruined by the floods. What was incredible was the community support. Mahiran rightly pointed out that if a disaster were to happen, there is no better place than New Zealand as no community is more prepared. Many people live remotely and are used to being self-sufficient and handy, most have trucks and are able to get over difficult roads, farmers have the spirit and resources to be the ones accessing the homes that were the most cut off, everyone treated each other like family – supporting each other. We felt how genuine this community wass and left with a soft spot for Gizzy and its people.

6. The Detour: Lakes and More 

As the only road that was open went North we ended up back in Ohope within a day. What a relief, and once again this place only brought us comfort, oozing warmth into our pores and relaxing our tensed muscles. We spent a night evaluating our possible next steps: Could we keep going and finish our trip? Should we head back to Auckland? We had used a lot more money than planned because of Gizzy, we had a car that ran but that couldn’t go into four wheel drive, and our one month timeframe was expiring. With careful consideration and desire to complete what we had set out to do, we decided to continue but redirected our route and gave ourselves a time limit. 

With Taranaki as our new intended destination, we cut through the middle of the country, stopping for lunch in Roturura (not too smelly) and a night at a freedom campsite by lake Taupo. And how incredible it was – the water – I have never seen something so clear and inviting and yet so cold but vitalising. This same energy came with the waterfall gushing insane amounts of shimmering water into a crevice of rocks. The sun was shining and we felt like tourists on holiday in wonderland.

7. Taranaki

Touching base with Taranaki felt so good. The sun continued to shine, the ocean was glimmering, and we were smiling. The plan was to head straight to New Plymouth, but on our route we got detoured by a magnificent wild camping spot. It was literally a long patch of green grass on a cliff overlooking a glorious bay cocooned by clay rock formations. When we arrived no one else was there and we knew that the exquisite view had immediately won us over for what would be the most scenic night yet. Later in the evening a few more people arrived, a lovely campervan couple who were not going to spend the night, a few tent people, and some families, and leisure fishermen. I am not going to lie, we were slightly disappointed that our secret spot was not so secret after all but the free night in paradise was still worth it. This stay was made all the more special by the seafood meal we indulge in including the shellfish Mahiran collected amidst the rocks and the huge snapper given to us by a friendly fisherman. And in the morning we laughed at our saucepan jug shower. 

Like the Mount, New Plymouth confused us; while it’s a big town with key accessories, somehow it felt like the people were missing. For somewhere known for its legendary surf (home to Surf Hughway 45), we expected a surf/beach town but the urban city felt nothing like it. Nonetheless, we enjoyed our time, Mahi caught some waves and we repeatedly drove by the Americanah car show. 

In Taranaki, I particularly fell in love with a cute little town called Opunake decorated with beautiful murals, nestling cute cafes, and home to the kindest community we had encountered yet. We could move here, we decided. We would be back.

8. The Southernmost Geography of the North Island

The South of the North Island marked the beginning of the end of our trip. On the outskirts of Wellignton, we stopped in a cute town and stayed at a campsite that Mahiran identified as having the potential to be his favourite place yet, if only the ocean washing into the bay had waves. Close by, Mahiran treated himself (early birthday present) to his first Japanese kitchen knife bought from the coolest in-house knife shop.

Wellington was next, the part of New Zealand that we had heard the most mixed reviews about. We were only pleasantly surprised – it lived up to its reputed cafe culture, it resembles Europe with its old architecture, we were impressed by the lush and abundant greenery, and we were scared shitless by its windy steep narrow roads. We spent our first night at our favorite airbnb (a cozy loft-like space, with gorgeous wood beams, and glass windows in the bathrooms with only treetops as views). Within its proximity, we explored the vibrance of the town center with its multicultural populace.

For Mahiran’s birthday, we distanced ourselves from the city and indulged in a night of champagne and delicious food in a cozy cabin on a hill overlooking the bay. In the morning we drove to Ngawai, New Zealand’s southernmost point of the North Island – what a special place this was to visit. The drive itself was breathtaking, and Ngawi, a deserted fishermen town enchanted by mystic energy, gripped us. We had lunch on a bench overlooking the crystal-like ocean invited onto the shores by fishermen boats and rusty beach tractors. We then went to the lighthouse, and hung out with sooo many seals – many of which were newborns. 

On our drive home we made an unplanned stop in Martinborough and decided to spend the night, appreciating the cute vineyard town treating ourselves to an expensive meal and some local wines to end Mahiran’s 24th birthday right.

9. The Rolling Hills of Vineyards, Desert Road, and THE Mountain 

The beginning of our drive back to Auckland was onced again marked by the splendors of the central lands. This time we were shown magical roads that wound themselves around vineyards onto a barren desert marked by military signage and into mountains glimmering with waterfalls. We spent a night in the hills just beyond the desert and experienced our coldest night in the tent and our coldest swim in an icy river. A good cleanse before city life was upon us.

10. Back to Basics

Our last stop before Auckland was Hamiltn to visit Mahiran’s dad. We had planned  to stay for one night, but expanded it to two, appreciating the company as well as the comfort of a home that didn’t come with the responsibilities awaiting us at home. It felt good to stop, we were apprehensive of what awaited us.

On the road back to Auckland we stopped for one of Mahiran’s birthday presents from me: A paragliding flight. Off some cliffs on the West Coast, with a cool free spirited instructor called Hunter, Mahiran dove into the sky for a peaceful glide above the ocean.

This flight marks the end of our trip. An hour later, we were opening the front door of our home in Sandringham unsure about how to feel.